Smoked mackerel fishcakes, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (The River Cottage Fish Book)

I’ve made plenty of fishcakes over the years, but never a smoked mackerel one. Nor indeed, have I eaten one before today. If you also haven’t, you are missing out. A very simple recipe – equal quantities of mashed potato and smoked mackerel, a dash of horseradish and wholegrain mustard, some chives; shaped and fried.

The masterstroke in the book is the suggestion of teaming it with a grated raw beetroot and apple salad – a superb treat as a starter.